CHANNELLING AUTUMN

Before any exploration of the Channel Islands, it’s always useful to consider what the islands are and what they aren’t. They’re not part of the UK but rather comprise two self-governing British crown dependencies: the Bailiwicks of Guernsey and Jersey. Also, all the Channel Islands are closer to France than England.

Easily reached from various UK hubs, the islands feel a world away from the UK, and have an easy-going atmosphere. But, despite sharing these appealing qualities, each island is also notably individual. You’ll realise this if you embark on any kind of island-hopping adventure (a smooth and hassle-free experience in the Channel Islands), which is our advice for making the most of your time here. However you spend your time in the Channel Islands, it’s not difficult to enjoy yourself. Better climates than the UK certainly help, as does abundant nature and wildlife. But there’s also more than enough cosmopolitan charm, art and culture, and excellent dining to be found.

These are islands to escape to, where you won’t return feeling like you need a holiday to wind down from the holiday. Here’s our guide to some of the best bits of the Channel Islands.

GUERNSEY

A holiday on the second-largest Channel Island can be as relaxing or as energetic as you want it to be, while history buffs can get their fill at a variety of sites, covering anything from Neolithic tombs to World War Two fortifications.

Start at St Peter Port, Guernsey’s pretty and atmospheric capital, where you’ll soon spot Castle Cornet perched out beyond the harbour. Dating back around 800 years, this sprawling construction now houses multiple museums and gardens, and provides great views across the English Channel.

Look up as you wander St Peter Port and you’ll see Hauteville House, the former residence of exiled French author Victor Hugo, who penned some classic works here, including Les Misérables. The house itself is a fantastically opulent venue. Decorated by Hugo himself and filled to the brim with elaborate art and furniture, it’s a worthwhile visit. It’s also delightfully easy to find prime positions for soaking up Guernsey’s marvellous natural scenery. Make the circular walk between National Trust of Guernsey land sites Le Gouffre, Le Bigard and La Plaine des Camprôts for a geographically varied and seriously scenic stroll.

And then there are the beaches. There are understandably popular picks like picture-perfect Cobo Bay and buzzy Vazon Bay, but some of the true coastal treasures can be unearthed with a little more work. These include sites like Saints Bay, hidden at the end of a long, quiet road; Petit Port (reached by descending 270 steep steps) and Fermain Bay, where you’ll once again need to tackle a steep hill, but will be well rewarded if you do.

HERM

Just a 20-minute ferry ride from St Peter Port, Herm is car-free and teeming with nature, including Europe’s southernmost puffin colony. Autumn is a great time to spot some of Herm’s other residents, including dolphins, seals and an array of birdlife. Activity wise, you’ll find everything from kayaking to stand-up paddle-boarding to boat tours, while the island also holds several welcoming pubs in the Mermaid Tavern and The Ship Inn.

ALDERNEY

Measuring just one and half miles by three and half miles, Alderney can be reached by ferry from Guernsey or by flying from Guernsey or Southampton. It won’t take long to settle into this relaxed spot, not least because its beautiful beaches remain uncrowded at any time of year. Try Braye’s arc of white sands, minutes from the harbour, or Saye, where you might spot a grey seal. Or enjoy coastal views from the comfort of Adrift Sauna, a mobile wood- fired sauna that’s perfect for rejuvenation.

SARK

One of the smallest autonomous territories in the world and with a proudly French feel in parts (the island sits around 20 miles from the French coast), Sark is a unique and captivating place. Its rugged landscapes and wild cliffs are a visual treat and give the island’s beaches – such as Creux Harbour and Dixcart Bay – a dramatic natural backdrop. Needless to say, there are numerous walking trails to help you take in all those landscapes, and multiple cafes, pubs and restaurants to refuel in between all the hiking.